Detangling 101: Kinky Curly Hair

Hola todos!

One of the things I wish I had more insight on before I went natural was how to properly detangle my hair. I never BC'd (big chopped), so while I was transitioning I would end up with many knots and tangles in my hair (due to the two hair textures) which I would get impatient with and rip out. *hangs head* Can you say split ends?

I remember one time I had braids in my hair and when I removed them, I washed my hair without detangling first. Oh my, bad idea! Parts of my hair were so badly tangled that I had to cut out chunks of my hair in order to get the knots out. I don't really have issues growing my hair, but I struggled with length retention because of breakage. One of the biggest culprits that lead to my breakage was that I wasn't detangling properly.

So I present you Detangling 101: Kinky Curly Hair....so that you can learn from my mistakes :)


1. Never detangle dry hair.

Welcome to Curly Hair Commandment #6. Detangling dry hair can result in ripping and breakage (due to the tight fragile nature of the curl pattern).

2. Wash your hair in sections.

If your hair is on the longer side it might get tangled as you wash it. To help avoid tangles and to keep the hair in a stretched state, wash in sections.

Section your hair in roughly 4-6 twists and wash each section individual (re-twisting when complete).

3. Pre-Poo

Prior to shampooing, try detangling your hair with an inexpensive conditioner. This will help prevent tangles prior to washing, or eliminate particular nasty ones.

Dampen/wet hair and work conditioner through the sections before shampooing. Pre-pooing also helps add some additional moisture to the strands prior to shampooing. Shampoos can cause dryness...which aids in tangles.

4. Detangle with conditioner.

Thoroughly apply conditioner to your hair in sections. The conditioner provides better slip to help work through the tangles and knots.

5. Use your fingers.

Why spend money on expensive combs and brushes when you have the best tool already on your person. Fingers are the gentlest way to detangle your strands. With using your fingers, it's easier for your to adjust the amount of force to gently work apart tangles and knots. Although it may take a little bit longer, it can lead to less breakage, which means greater length retention.

Working through each section, start at the ends and gently work your way to the roots.

[If you feel you must use a comb, opt for a wide-tooth comb. Avoid using fine-tooth combs/brushes, as it may rip your hair. Always go from ends to roots, never the other way around!].

6. Keep hair in a stretched-state.

The kinkier or curlier your hair, the more beneficial it may be to keep it in a stretched state. Stretching will help prevent shrinkage (which can help tangles) and it will also help you to detangle strands easier.

I normally stretch my hair through braids and twists.

7. Be patient!

Have patience when handling your hair. If you're not in the mood or in a rush, leave it for another day.

Rushing to detangle your hair can lead to split ends, breakage and ripping. So make sure you give yourself sufficient time and give your hair a lil TLC.


:)
J

"El amor mira no con los ojos, sino con la mente"

Check out Dem Curls: Evelyn!

With natural styling by the wind, I don’t have to worry about combing my hair everyday - Evelyn

What’s your name? Evelyn R Espinal

How old are you? 24

What do you do? I’m a Business management student at Humber Lakeshore / brazilian zouk dancer

Where are you? At home lol…in Toronto

How did we meet? During a Zouk social

Now Playing :

Santa Maria (del Buen Ayre) Gotan Project

(I enjoy all sorts of music!)

Quote you live by: "I find hope in the darkest of days, and focus in the brightest. I do not judge the universe."- Dalai Lama

Describe your hair type? Medium length thick hair with loose curls.

Tell us a little about your hair history and what made you decide to go natural?

I used to wear it curly all through high school and as I grew older I wanted drastic changes, I’ve gone from red to blonde highlights but always maintained my dark chocolate base colour. I’ve done bangs across and to the side as well as cutting my hair above shoulder length. The thing is hair stylists would always give me a straight style and therefore I would have to maintain it by always drying it etc until it grew long enough to leave it curly. Same with bangs, I love bangs across but that’s very damaging to my hair as I would have to blow dry them straight ALL THE TIME.

Describe your hair regime

[Click on the product names, for product links!]

That’s easy, shampoo (Pantene Pro-v Curly Hair Series: Mositure Renewal Shampoo), condition (Pantene Pro-v Curly Hair Series: Moisture Renewal Conditioner) but rinse with semi cold water so the oils don’t strip away with the heat. I massage the scalp to allow blood flow and help growth. I comb my hair while the conditioner is in my hair by running my fingers through it. Later before putting the towel over my hair, to dry I squeeze gently the excess water with hands and add coconut oil. If I'm going out, I add a bit of curl mousse and then put the towel over my hair. I find that this allows all the excess mousse to stay on the towel and it doesn’t weigh down my curls.

As a leave-in I use Coconut Milk Anti-Breakage Serum by Organix (can be found at shoppers drug mart) which is an amazing serum that smells great and is inexpensive.

I usually wear my hair down and I don’t diffuse it, I just let it dry naturally. The only times I will use a diffuser is during the winter months. When I wear it up I usually tie it back using hair spray and or mousse to help with the fly aways. Although I know this is really damaging to my hair. I try not to do so as much unless it’s really warm out.

Who is your hair icon? I don’t think I really have a hair icon…would Dave Mayeda count? He’s one of those hair gurus on Youtube.

What was your Momma’s best kept hair secret? Kinda learned on my own as I went along lol

The one hair product you couldn’t live without? Hair serum

Mistakes that you’ve learned from.

Hair gel is way too heavy on my curls (I love volume), and the alcohol isn’t good for your hair

I also learned that you MUST KEEP MOISTURE for curly kair

What’s the best thing about being curly? Natural styling by the wind, I don’t have to worry about combing my hair everyday lol

Any advice for ‘dem curls out there?

USE SERUM!!!

Alicia Keys: It's a new day!

Alicia Keys posted this picture on her twitter a few days ago, with the caption: "Look what I done did!!;-))) its an #aknewday in EVERY way!!!! ;-)))) "

I love it, especially the curly-do! Can't wait for her new album!

I Am Not My Hair - India Arie

I was listening to this song today and thought I'd share the lyrics, because they speak such truth. They are very much a source of support and inspiration! I have loved this song for years, because I could relate to every verse in some part of my natural hair journey. I posted because I think it's an important reminder that we need to be confident and proud of who we are on the inside, and remember that we are not defined by our hair.

Happy Wednesday everyone! :)

J
 ----------

"I Am Not My Hair"

[Talking:]
Is that India.Arie? What happened to her hair? Ha ha ha ha ha
Dat dad a dat da [4x] Dad a ooh


[Verse 1]
Little girl with the press and curl
Age eight I got a Jheri curl
Thirteen and I got a relaxer
I was a source of so much laughter
At fifteen when it all broke off
Eighteen and went all natural
February two thousand and two
I went on and did
What I had to do
Because it was time to change my life
To become the women that I am inside
Ninety-seven dreadlocks all gone
I looked in the mirror
For the first time and saw that HEY....


[Chorus]
I am not my hair
I am not this skin
I am not your expectations no no
I am not my hair
I am not this skin
I am a soul that lives within


[Talking:]
What'd she do to her hair? I don't know it look crazy
I like it. I might do that.
Umm I wouldn't go that far. I know .. ha ha ha ha


[Verse 2]
Good hair means curls and waves
Bad hair means you look like a slave
At the turn of the century
Its time for us to redefine who we be
You can shave it off
Like a South African beauty
Or get in on lock
Like Bob Marley
You can rock it straight
Like Oprah Winfrey
If its not what's on your head
Its what's underneath and say HEY....


[Chorus]


[Bridge]
(Whoa, whoa, whoa)
Does the way I wear my hair make me a better person?
(Whoa, whoa, whoa)
Does the way I wear my hair make me a better friend? Oh
(Whoa, whoa, whoa)
Does the way I wear my hair determine my integrity?
(Whoa, whoa, whoa)
I am expressing my creativity..
(Whoa, whoa, whoa)


[Verse 3]
Breast Cancer and Chemotherapy
Took away her crown and glory
She promised God if she was to survive
She would enjoy everyday of her life ooh
On national television
Her diamond eyes are sparkling
Bald headed like a full moon shining
Singing out to the whole wide world like HEY...


[Chorus 2x]


[Ad lib]
If I wanna shave it close
Or if I wanna rock locks
That don't take a bit away
From the soul that I got
Dat da da dat da [4x]
If I wanna where it braided
All down my back
I don't see what wrong with that
Dat da da dat da [4x]


[Talking:]
Is that India.Arie?
Ooh look she cut her hair!
I like that, its kinda PHAT
I don't know if I could do it.
But it looks sharp, it looks nice on her
She got a nice shaped head
She got an apple head
I know right?
It's perfect.

The 10 Curly Hair Commandments

1. Thou shall be thankful and proud of the hair on thy head. It's thy crown of glory. Do not be shy or ashamed of your hair, it's yours and it’s beautiful, so embrace it. Remember, you are not defined by your hair.

2.Thou shall eat properly and maintain a healthy lifestyle. Healthy hair starts from the inside out. By eating healthy you are nourishing your hair follicles (which is important to healthy hair growth). Your diet and lifestyle (exercise, amount of stress, sleep) is very much reflective on the bounce in your curls.

3. Thou shall not fear water. When I use to press my hair, water was my enemy. I feared it like the plague, for fear that my kinky-curly texture would return if it got wet. And I always thought water would make my hair dry. How ignorant I was! Water is hands down the best moisturizer! [It's important to seal that moisture in with natural oils and butters]. Look for products with water as the first ingredient. Spritizing water on your hair in the morning will help to revive your curls.

4. Thou shall moisturize! I can’t begin to explain how important this is. Remember, water is the best moisturizer and it’s important to invest in a quality deep conditioner AND leave-in. Curly hair and especially kinky-curly hair can get very dry because of the curl texture (which makes it difficult for natural oils produced by scalp to travel down the hair shaft).

5.Thou shall honor wash day and keep it sacred. It's really important to do regular deep condition treatments to moisturize your hair. So if you do this once a week, it's important to stay consistent. Your hair will thank you for it!

6. Thou shall not detangle dry curls. Detangling dry hair can result in ripping and breakage. Wet hair, use conditioner and going through your hair in sections, use your fingers to detangle...gently!

7.Thou shall nourish thy hair with quality ingredients. Try to stick to natural products, oils and butters and avoid ingredients such as silicone's, parabens, and petrolatum.

8. Thou shall protect thy curls while sleeping. Sleep on a satin/silk pillow case, or wear a silk cap. This will help to maintain the moisture in your hair and prevent breakage.

9. Thou shall not kill thy curls with extreme heat. Heat can be very damaging to your curl pattern, so try and avoid it. Allow your hair to air dry. If you must use heat to straighten or blow dry, be sure to use a heat protectant (i.e., grape seed oil).

10. Thou shall not covet thy neighbours curls. Love your hair, it's unique to you. If you don't love it, no one else will.

Check out Dem Curls: Michele!

"The best thing about being natural is its versatility, you can rock a fro one day, a twistout the next day or twists. The styles are endless." - Michele

What’s your name? Michele

How old are you? 22

What do you do? Auditor at a public accounting firm.

Where are you? Toronto, Ontario Canada

How did we met? We work at the same firm and met September 2011.

Now Playing :

Currently a little of an oldie released in 2011; Motivation by Kelly Rowland ft Lil Wayne and the reggae version of Usher’s Climax edited by Jr Blender Reggae

Quote you live by:

You must always remember, you are braver than you believe, stronger than you seem and smarter than you think – Winnie the pooh

Describe your hair type?

My hair is short (above my shoulders, about neck length) very kinky, tightly coiled and has a low density.

Tell us a little about your hair history and what made you decide to go natural?

As a child my mother did not know how to take care of my hair which resulted in my moving from braids to a TWA (Teeny Weeny Afro), relaxer to a TWA, jherri curls to TWA and then texturizers to TWA. As you noticed, every time my mother decided to try a new hair “relaxing” method it never got positive results, my hair would constantly break, my sides would thin out and most importantly I could never sit through the chemical processes, as my scalp is very sensitive. Once I finally took control over my hair in my teens I thought maybe things would change and started going to my own hair dresser but nothing really changed; I still couldn’t sit through a relaxer (believe me I tried all the relaxers on the market at the time) and my hair was still thinning out. As I was searching for my options on combating my hair issues and discussing my options with my hair dresser, she had suggested I go natural. With her suggestion and the fact that my hair was literally falling out in chunks at the time, I made the decision to go natural April 2010 and big chopped (BC) on July 16, 2010, one of the best decisions I’ve made.

Describe your hair regime.

[Click on the product names, for product links!]

Current regimen:

Wash Day (usually every 3 to 4 weeks):

Start with an apple cider vinegar (ACV) rinse, 1 part ACV to 3 parts water

Wash with Terressentials Left Coast Lemon Pure Earth Mud wash and finger detangle

After rinsing out the mud wash, I sprits my hair with my glycerine mix, same proportion as ACV rinse

Apply a dime size amount of Kinky Curly Knot Today and seal with coconut oil when braiding in sections

Deep Conditioners: I used to use Jessicurl Weekly Deep Conditioning Treatment (great product) however it doesn’t work the same on my hair as it used to. I am currently trying to create my own recipe similar to that of Anita Grant’s Rhassoul Deep Conditioner, the product is amazing and leaves my hair soft and moisturized. Unfortunately the shipping costs are quite high for me! :)

Protein treatment

I am currently trying to up my protein treatments to once every 2 months.

Recipe: Greek yogurt, honey, ACV and lavender.

Hair styles:

Minitwists, flat twists into a banana clip (ends tucked away) and braid out with flat twist at the front.

Who is your hair icon?

Naptural85, Rusticbeauty and Tonidaley80 all three on YouTube.

What was your Momma’s best kept hair secret?

My mother has no secrets, hence above.

The one hair product you couldn’t live without.

Coconut oil and any clay like products such as bentonite clay, rhassoul etc, they work so well in my hair.

Mistakes that you’ve learned from.

Being a product junky; if you find a product that works well with your hair, stop looking

What’s the best thing about being curly?

The best thing about being natural is its versatility, you can rock a fro one day, a twistout the next day or twists. The styles are endless.

Any advice for ‘dem curls out there?

Be patient and understand your hair. Remember what works for one person may not work for you.



Mini twists.



Flat twist into banana clip.





Twist out.



My Hair Routine

Hello!

So I thought I would blog about my hair regime because I finally found out what works best for my hair. I’ve been natural for 3 years now and it has taken me that long to build a solid routine....no lie. Through research and experimentation (I'm a bit of a product junkie) I've finally found a good combination.

I remember when I was searching for examples on routines, I was getting frustrated because I couldn’t find an all-inclusive hair routine fit for my type 4 hair. I since learned, you build your own regime and tailor it to your hair.

I try to use natural products in my hair, because they are of the best quality, and work best on my curls. However, some of my products aren't all natural (mostly so) but still work amazing. It's about finding what works with your hair!

However, it helps to have a foundation. Enjoy! =)

Deep Condition

How Often: My hair is slightly moody  and can get very dry so I’ll deep conditioning it once a week.

Fav Products:

I normally alternate my products to switch it up a bit, or I’ll remix my conditioner (click to see blog post on how to "Remix Your Conditioner"). But my go-to's are,

JessiCurl Weekly Deep Conditioning Treatment  (love, love, love!)

Elasta QP Soy OYL Ultra Hydration Anti-Breakage Moisture-Rich Deep Conditioner

[Note: The Elasta QP isn't 100% natural, but it works amazing on my hair, leaving it feeling super soft. Plus it's very affordable, the large tub only costs $10.99!]

 

Co-wash

How Often: A co-wash is a conditioner only wash. I co-wash my hair once or twice during the week (in between the deep conditioning treatments). Co-washes are very good for restoring moisture to my strands mid-week.

Fav Products:

Yes to Carrots, Pampering Conditioner (new fav! - Click here to see my review)

Elasta QP Soy Oyl Ultra Hydration Conditioner

Shampoo

How Often: I’ll shampoo my hair once a month or when I start to feel a product build up. (I always follow up with a deep-conditioning treatment).

Fav Products:

DevaCurl No-Poo (This cleanser has no sulfates, therefore it doesn't lather. I love it! Remember some sulphates aren't good for the hair.)

[Note: If I use a clarifying shampoo (I currently don't have any fav's) or a lathering shampoo, I'll do a pre-poo (pre shampoo) treatment. I’ll dampen my hair with warm water and apply extra-virgin olive oil (or I'll mix a hot-oil treatment). I’ll let it sit on my hair for about 15 minutes. Then I’ll shampoo. I find that my hair gets very dry with clarifying or sudsy shampoos, so the pre-poo helps to counteract that.]

After Conditioning/Co-Wash

1. I use a towel to rid the excess water from my hair. Scrunching not rubbing to prevent tangling and frizz.

2. I spritz a mixture of aloe vera juice and glycerin onto my damp hair. Aloe vera juice helps to balance the pH in your hair and glycerin helps to retain moisture.

3. I apply coconut oil. (I got this idea from a friend. The oil is light enough to not weigh down my hair, and I find adding before my leave-in helps with moisturizing and softness).

4. Apply a leave-in conditioner.

Fav Products:

Kinky-Curly Knot Today (Love, love, love! This is my favourite leave-in. It is amazing at detangling, a great moisturizer, and smells heavenly).

Ouidad Moisture Lock Leave-In (I recently sampled this from my curl box and really liked it! It doesn't leave my hair as soft as Kinky-Curly but it's a great moisturizer).

5. I use a mixture of Shea butter/olive oil/coconut oil/jojoba oil to seal my ends as I twist my hair. I twist my hair in maybe 10-15 twists to let it air dry.

I'll add approx 2 tablespoons of Shea butter, a few drops of jojoba, 1 teaspoon of olive oil and 1 teaspoon of coconut oil and mix it together. I'll heat it up to melt the Shea butter (as it's a solid at room temp). This mixture will last me all week. I'll apply it to my strands to seal in the moisture from my conditioner and leave-in. This is perhaps the most important step!

Morning

I spritz the same aloe-vera juice/glycerin mixture in my hair to refresh my curls. My hair is normally pretty moisturized from the night before so I won't usually any extra moisturizer.

Or sometimes, I'll let my hair down in the shower and let the steam work it's magic :)

Night

I'll spritz my hair with the aloe-vera juice/glycerin mixture. Add a dab of leave-in (if my hair is feeling dry). I'll apply the Shea butter mix to seal my ends as I re twist my hair.

Sometimes I'll also use a cream to twist my hair (provides a good hold and good for moisturizing).

My fav is: Shea Moisture Organic Coconut and Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie (I find it works the best on my twist outs and smells amaaaaaaaazing!)

If I'm lazy I won't twist my hair, but I'll pull my hair into a pineapple on top of my head.

I sleep with a silk pillow case or sometimes I'll wear a silk cap.

That's all for now m'loves! Take care,

 

J

"El amor mira no con los ojos, sino con la mente"

Review: Yes to Carrots, Pampering Conditioner

Name: "Yes to Carrots, Pampering Conditioner"

What is it? A light rinse out conditioner.

How much? $10.99

Size? 500 ml
Where to purchase? Shoppers Drug Mart

Product Highlights:

- paraben free

- SIS (sodium lauryl sulphate) free

- contains beta-carotene (an essential vitamin that helps keep hair healthy and hydrated)

Key Ingredients Include:

Carrot Juice, Carrot Seed Oil, Matricaria Flower Oil, Olive Fruit Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Pumpkin Extract, Sweet Potato Extract, Melon Extract, Jojoba Seed Oil, Orange Extract, Wheat Germ Oil, Honey Extract, Pomegranate Extract

Carrot juice is rich in Vitamin A - making it awesome for helping to strengthen hair.

Sweet potato is loaded with vitamins and minerals (such as vitamin A, E, B6 and iron) which all contribute to healthy hair.

Honey helps to attract moisture and retain water.

All of the natural oils listed (i.e., jojoba, olive fruit oil) are great natural hair moisturizers.

My Opinion:

I've been meaning to try this conditioner for a while and never got around to it. Finally tried it tonight and I la-la-love it! It smells heavenly and it also has amazing slip. It didn't weigh down my hair and left it feeling very soft. It was also good for detangling. I'll likely use this conditioner going forward for my co-washes (conditioner washes).

And at $10.99, it's also very affordable!



Take care!
xx

Why Big Mac’s Don’t Grow Hair

Physical hair maintenance (i.e., your hair regime) is only a part of what helps promote healthy hair. Hair is dead, so healthy hair begins from the inside (with the hair follicles) and is reflective of your overall health.

If you want healthier hair and an overall healthier lifestyle, consider the following:

.

1.Big Mac's Don't Grow Hair

It's important to remember that hair is dead (from the minute it pushes through your scalp). The living part is the hair follicle (underneath your scalp) and this is nourished by your diet. I love hamburgers...but they don't grow hair.

So skip the Big Mac and try:

Hair Food #1. Foods with essential fatty acids (i.e., Salmon, Nuts)
Why it's Awesome: Fatty acids help to promote a healthy scalp and hydrate hair follicles.

Hair Food #2: Foods rich in protein (i.e., eggs, quinoa, meat, beans, and soy)
Why it's Awesome: Protein is very important for healthy hair. Eggs contain protein (which is very important in healthy hair growth!), biotin, and vitamin B12 (all of which help strengthen the hair).

Hair Food #3: Dark Green Vegetables (i.e., spinach, broccoli) 
Why it's Awesome: These veggies are good sources of iron and calcium, which help in the production of sebum (natural oil produced by the scalp).

Hair Food #4: Foods rich in biotin (i.e., Almonds, walnuts, berries, bananas, soy beans, liver)
Why it's Awesome: Biotin helps in the strengthening of hair.

Remember that while your hair may be important to you, it's a non-essential to your body. So if nutrients are ever limited in your system (i.e., through extreme dieting, or you're stuck in a dessert and starving), your body will first send nutrients to the important organs (i.e., your brain) and your hair follicles will be the last thing on the list! So it's important to have a healthy diet, to provide your body with the sufficient nutrients it needs.

2. Drink lots of Water.

Keep yourself hydrated, it's important to your body's functioning (approx 3 L per day).

3. Stress Less

Stress isn't good for the body. It can affect the hormone levels in your system and your hair follicles (which can negatively impact hair growth or contribute to hair loss). 
So whether it's taking a yoga class, practicing meditation, or reducing your work hours...try and lower the stress levels in your life. It'll do you good :)

4. Multi-Vitamins

We're not all perfect and even though we eat properly it may be hard to get 100% of the daily required vitamins and minerals.

In this case, taking a multi-vitamin is important to ensure your body is getting all the required nutrients. I take an Omega 3-6-9 supplement as well.

5. Dance, dance, dance! Or any other form of exercise.

I won't go into a spiel about the health benefits of exercise, only that you should partake in regular physical activity. It's part of a healthy lifestyle :)

6. Sleep

We're only human, there's only so long we can function without sleep before our body begins to shut down. So it's important to get enough rest every night (7-8 hours minimum). Sleep allows the body to re-energize, promoting a healthy immune system and healthy hair growth.

Conclusion

Keep in mind, if you switch from Big Macs to healthier foods today, you won't have better hair tomorrow. It takes a few months, so be patient! :) Just realize that these are all lifestyle changes, that will benefit your overall health and well being. What you eat and your overall lifestyle can be reflective on the bounce in 'dem curls.

Peace, love and happiness ya'll :)
J


Resources:
http://www.womenshealthmag.com/beauty-and-style/healthy-foods-for-hair-1
http://www.ehow.com/facts_5701398_sleep-hair-growth.html
http://www.webmd.com/healthy-beauty/features/top-10-foods-for-healthy-hair